Sun, May 22 to Girona

Sun, May 22 After breakfast we set off about 20 miles west as the crow flies through more beautiful countryside with castles and cathedrals until we reached the small city of Girona straddling the Riu Onyar. Hilary found an underground parking lot in the “new” town and we walked across the bridge to the “old” town. We first visited the 13-17^th century Church of Sant Feliú where Sant Narcis is buried. Supposedly French soldiers broke into his crypt in 1285, and out swarmed a lot of huge flies who bit the soldiers to death! Flies are a motif throughout town.

We then climbed the ninety steps up to the large cathedral of Santa Maria at the beginning of high mass. The cathedral was begun in 1347, stopped by the black death and continued in 1404 with the radical idea of constructing one large nave 72’ wide instead of the usual three naves. The vault rises 75’, supported by interior buttresses and is second only in size to St. Peter’s in Rome. There were four priests conducting mass, with their wonderful baritone singing, and a young woman to the side singing the high parts and the organ playing. With the incense, ceremony and all, it was a quite moving experience and we were quite lucky in our timing.


We walked along the city wall and started descending down to the river again, stopping at a little outdoor café where we split a great Serrano ham and cheese on a fresh baguette with beer. A gelato shop suddenly appeared and we got pistachio and chocolate chip cones.

 We made our way back to the car park and drove over back roads back to the Parador. Hil and I sat by the pool and read for a little rare R&R. At 8 pm we met for drinks, Campari and soda and white wine and then went into dinner. I had a delicious bowl of white beans and clams and then fish ravioli and the others had pork with thistle mushrooms. Blog and bed.