Sat, May 14 - Walking through Barcelona

Sat, May 14 - Although the weather report has predicted rain, the weather continued to be perfect today. We took a walk along the water front which before the Olympics in 1992 was a grubby industrial area. It’s difficult to believe this lovely area with wide palm-lined walkways, underground parking, endless cafes and clean beaches was ever anything else! We returned at nine for another breakfast at Geni’s and then set off walking the lovely, wide Marina Avenue a couple of miles, passing the old ornate bull ring and ending up at Gaudí’s Cathedral in progress, La Segrada Família.

It was still very crowded with tourists and we didn’t even think about getting inside, but walked all around it and viewed it from the dog park across the street. We got a better detailed look at all the fanciful spires, the religious figures, colorful fruit topping spikes, just amazing!

We continued walking until we came to Gaudí’s Casa Milà, a large apartment building with an undulating concrete façade, which we had also passed on the bus yesterday. The line wasn’t too long so we bought tickets and were ushered inside to the center courtyard where the shuttered doors of the current residents spiral up the wall. Most of the building is off limits as people actually live inside this UNESCO World Heritage Site. We took the elevator up to the roof-top terrace which is filled with bizarre and colorful shapes on many different levels and then descended steps into the attic which is filled with exhibits and film clips about Gaudí’s work and life. The ceiling was constructed in an amazing series of arches of brick. There is one apartment occupying an entire floor of the building which is open to the public and is a strange combination of late nineteenth century furnishings in rooms with five sides and whimsical decorations. Gaudí is a unique genius and far ahead of his time, or even today!

We had to hurry as we were meeting the Brucatos for lunch at Cuidat Comtal, suposively one of the best tapas places in town. it’s open from 1pm to 1am, and we were advised to get there right as it opened if we hoped to get a table. Fortunately, Margaret and Robert tend to be early, so we found they had gotten a table, and the place seemed to be jammed although they had just opened!

We were taking them out to lunch as it was their 29^th wedding anniversary. Lunch was great! We started with little baguettes split and covered with olive oil and tomatoes, and refreshing lemon beer and wine. Then, in quick succession came little plates filled with thinly sliced potatoes layered with mushrooms and foie gras, shrimp in oil, fried artichokes, and red peppers stuffed with cod puree, fried hot green peppers. We ate this all very quickly and then had crème brulee, coconut pudding and hot chocolate cake for dessert. Great lunch!

Hilary, Bob and I continued walking even though our feet were getting sore and came into the old center of town from which autos are largely prohibited as the streets are so winding and narrow that cars would just mean trouble. We passed beautiful cathedrals, great little shops and throngs of people out for the weekend. I was really dragging by the time we finally got back to Hotel Arts by 4, and Bob reported that we had walked 5.1 miles!

We are taking a break right now. Margaret suggested getting tickets to a concert tonight which we agreed to as the music sounds good and the hall, Palau del la Musica Catalan, is a old historic building, yet another UNESCO World Heritage Site….but it turns out that the concert doesn’t begin until 10:30pm,..our bedtime…so we’ll see how this pans out!!

At seven we wandered over to one of the beach front restaurants and go mojitos, beer and indifferent pizza. At 9 Hilary and I grabbed a taxi in the pouring rain (Bob decided that 10:30pm concert start time was too ridiculous and exhausting to contemplate) and met the Brucatos in this ornate and wonderful building at the bar downstairs where we had a glass of cava, and then proceeded upstairs. The hall is small with two horseshoe-shaped balconies and an additional balcony inside the concert shell! The wall are pink and decorated with flowers and flourishes. Colored glass tiles decorate other parts of it. Quite spectacular. The orchestra and program were fine, featuring a terrific guitarist, but Hil and I dozed off throughout much of it, I’m afraid! And there were Two encores, which we didn’t need! We easily got a taxi home and collapsed!